June 14, 2009

Vanilla Bean and Whiskey Pudding Tartlets


My sister’s apartment is sort of an apocalyptic mess. She has three rolling pins I can never find, always appears to have some sort of meat carcass in her fridge waiting to be cooked into stock, and on my most recent trip to Pittsburgh, also had an ice formation in her freezer that I think she left there because it looks like, well, a certain male bathing-suit part. Her apartment is scattered with clothes, children’s books, crafting things, leftover art, and library DVDs, and also, she keeps ceramic figurines of ambiguously rendered farm animals in her plants (the donkey-cow-pig, for instance). There are wool sweaters in the freezer too, and the contents of a jumbo box of Nerds spilled across her coffee table.

Oh hai! I'm just a stack of pans, chillin' in the freezer with an icy phallus.

My cataloguing of her domestic detritus might not show it, but my sister is flat out my hero. The Atlantic published an article in May noting that 93% of the happy and healthy adults Dr. George Valliant measured in his lifelong psychological study on happiness had had good relationships with a sibling when younger. Well, from partnering to steal all the neighbors’ sample boxes of cereal, to getting the pride kicked out of me in every single board and card game ever, to catching tadpoles and crawdads in New Hampshire and jumping into slimy lakes and an eel-filled quarry in Maine, we have the kind of relationship reinforced by frozen wool sweaters, moldy dishes, and other things that take the sort of roundabout way to get where they're going. And when not preserving phallic ice sculptures or eating Vietnamese soups full of MSG, sometimes we make things in the kitchen. This time, it was failed butterscotch tartlets that turned into a serendipitous, vanilla-whiskey mistake, which I think sounds just about right, all things considered.

To keep the inside of the freezer warm.

Sometimes Whole Foods just, aherm, gives vanilla beans away.


Vanilla Bean and Whiskey Pudding Tartlets (with Chocolate Espresso Beans)

Adapted clumsily from Baked! New Frontiers in Baking

This recipe was supposed to make butterscotch tartlets, but they came out vanilla-y. I might not have cooked the caramel long enough and that's what did it, but I was using raw sugar, so it looked a little "amber-colored" from the get-go. Whatever I did wrong, these still tasted really excellent, and the whiskey adds a great punch to the vanilla. If you want to limit the butterscotch taste, simply do not caramelize the sugar. You might wonder what the point of going to the hassle of crusts is. I still wonder. In the end, they add some buttery goodness, and butter is nearly always the right decision, so if you can handle the additional steps, I say go for it.

Oat Wheat Tart Crust
1 cup rolled (oops! couldn’t find these, so I used 1 c. wheat flour)
½ cup whole-wheat flour
1cup all-purpose flour
¼ cup dark brown sugar, firmly packed
1 ½ sticks (¾ cup) cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes
¼ cup milk

1. Normally you would use a food processor to grind up the oats, if you had them, until ground but not powdered. Add the flours, sugar, and salt and pulse until combined. Add the butter and pulse until sandy. Add the milk and pulse a few seconds.

2. Scoop the dough out, form into a large ball, wrap it tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 and up to 3 hours.

3. Unwrap the dough, put it on a floured work surface, cut into 8 equal pieces. Gently shape each into a smooth disk (dough will be sticky), and then slide onto floured parchment paper and refrigerate for ten minutes (I skipped this). Using a floured rolling pin, roll the disks into a 6-inch, ¼-inch thick rounds, and place gently into tartlet pans, pushing gently against the sides and rolling down or trimming any excess.

4. Preheat oven to 325 degrees F, and put the tartlet crust into the freezer for 30 minutes. Place on a baking sheet and bake, rotating halfway through, for about 15 minutes or until the crusts are golden brown. Transfer to a rack, and let cool while you make the pudding. Remove shells from pans once they are cooled.

“Butterscotch” Pudding
6 large egg yolks
¾ cup granulated sugar
¼ cup water
¼ cup heavy cream
½ cup dark brown sugar, firmly packed
1/3 cup cornstarch, sifted (tapioca starch would work a-okay too)
1 teaspoon salt
3 cups whole milk
1 vanilla bean
1 Tablespoon unsalted butter
2 Tablespoons whiskey (or you know, more than that)

1. Put egg yolks into heatproof bowl and set aside. In a small saucepan, combine white sugar and water and stir over medium heat until the sugar is dissolved, then increase heat to medium high and cook until mixture turns dark amber. Swirl the pan if necessary to distribute the color evenly, but do not stir. Remove form heat, let stand 1 minute, then stir in the cream. Pour into a small bowl and set aside.

2. In another small saucepan, combine brown sugar, cornstarch, and salt. Stir in milk, and whisk to combine. Split the vanilla bean lengthwise, and scrape out the seeds into the saucepan; toss in the bean husk. Cook over medium-high, whisking occasionally until the mixture comes to a boil. Remove from heat and add the caramel, whisking until combined, then pour one-third of the mixture over the eggs. Keep whisking and add another third, then transfer the egg mixture back to the pan with the milk mixture in the saucepan, and bring to a boil over medium-high. Boil 2 to 3 minutes.

3. Remove from head and add butter and whiskey. Keep whisking for about a minute to cool then let pudding sit for 15 minutes. Remove vanilla beans. Whisk pudding again until smooth, and divide into shells evenly, saving just a couple tablespoons in a separate bowl. Cover the tarts and bowl with plastic wrap, and chill in fridge for 2 hours. Before serving, whisk the pudding in the bowl, and add a dollop to each tart. Top with some chocolate-covered espresso beans, and you’re all set!

June 9, 2009

Honey Walnut Tartlets and Radio CPR Sale


I was starting to sound like the biggest, all-time sad bastard a couple of weeks ago. I had contemplated moving back to California, threatened graduate school, and tried to slam the door on DC as I holed up in my house with various failed sewing and photography projects and a couple of completely unhealthy itunes playlists. Well lo’ and behold! All I had to do was look up and suddenly there were (as I had cautiously suspected) quite a few great people doing great things in this city.

I was lucky enough to be included as part of the second annual Radio CPR used books and records sale two weekends ago, along with local artists and craftsters the Bookish Lady, Kristina Bilonik, Kikapika Design, and practically wall-to-wall records and books. My menu was short and sweet: vanilla-caramel-dipped apples, chocolate rads, ginger lemonade, and these honey walnut tartlets that are even easier to make than they are to eat. Radio CPR met some pretty good success with the sale, and I met a couple of folks who sowed some excellent seeds of optimism in my formerly sad-bastard head.

The Tanglewood table! I could include a picture of me actually selling things, but I had gratuitous cleavage in all photos, so we shall leave the abundance of sweet things to stand in for my abundance of chest.


Honey Walnut Tartlets
Adapted from SmittenKitchen via Bon Appétit

If you don't want to make six tartlets, the following proportions will also work just perfectly for one normal 9-inch tart.

1 recipe tart shell, unbaked (I actually don't love this recipe, but it's very, very easy.)
1 cup whipping cream
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 cup golden brown sugar, packed
1/4 cup honey (try to pick a mild one—apple or orange blossom are perfect.)
2 teaspoons grated orange peel
1/2 teaspoon whole aniseed (I skip this and use 1/2 tsp. vanilla instead.)
1 3/4 cups walnuts, toasted, chopped (but not too finely!)
1/2 teaspoon salt

1. Preheat oven to 370 degrees F. Cut pastry dough into six pieces, and roll out each one to a 6-inch circle. Transfer to a lightly-buttered 4 1/2-inch-diameter tartlet pan with removable bottom. Press crust onto bottom and up sides of pan; trim overhang to 1/2 inch. Fold overhang in and press, forming double-thick sides. Repeat with remaining dough disks and 5 more pans and prick them all over with a fork.

2. Freeze crusts for 30 minutes. Lightly butter six pieces of foil and press them tightly against frozen tart shells. Bake crusts for 10 minutes before taking them out, carefully removing the foil, pressing down any pastry that has bubbled up gently with the back of a spoon and baking them for an additional 7 minutes, or until lightly golden at the edges. Take them out of the oven and let them cool. Increase oven temperature to 400 degrees F.

3. Meanwhile, make the filling. Stir cream and next 5 ingredients in heavy medium saucepan over medium-low heat until sugar dissolves; try not to let liquid splash the sides of the pot. Increase heat; boil until mixture bubbles thickly and color darkens slightly, about 6 minutes. Remove from heat; stir in walnuts then salt.

4. Place crusts on baking sheet lined with foil. Divide filling among crusts. Bake tartlets until filling bubbles thickly and crusts are golden, about 25 minutes total. (I actually had a problem with my walnuts and crusts getting close to burning last time I baked this, so I saved my foil pieces this time around, and covered the tops of the tartlets with about 10 minutes left to bake.) Cool tartlets, and remove pan sides while tartlets are still warm.

May 23, 2009

Yellow Cake with Bittersweet Chocolate Buttercream


If Candyland was real, or if Tim Burton had a cupcake shop, the cupcakes might look something like these little monstrosities. Yellow cake with chocolate frosting is my favorite cake combination, but lest a cupcake with classic flavors ever appear to be boring, I went as Sega as possible with the buttercream (and my new, shitty pastry bag from Safeway). This is the best yellow-cake recipe in my (and now your) reperetoire, and the bittersweet tinge to the frosting adds an unexpected and welcome departure from the sticky milk chocolates of childhood.



Check that little guy on the left! It's like Japanime in frosting form.


Awesome Yellow Cake

Using my supreme math skillz, I halved the following recipe to make 18 cupcakes. I haven’t provided the halved quantities since I left my sheet of math skillz conclusions at home (Woo! Blogging from work!). This makes one three-layer 9-inch round cake. Both recipes adapted from
Sky High: Irresistable Triple Layer Cakes.

3 3/4 cups cake flour
2 1/2 cups sugar
1 tablespoon plus 2 3/4 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 1/2 sticks (10 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 1/4 cups plus 1/3 cup buttermilk
5 whole eggs
2 egg yolks
2 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Butter three 9-inch round cake pans. Line the bottom of each pan with a round of parchment or waxed paper and butter the paper.

2. Combine the cake flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt in a large mixer bowl. With the mixer on low speed, blend for 30 seconds. Add the butter and 1 1/4 cup of the buttermilk. Mix on low speed briefly to blend; then raise the speed to medium and beat until light and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes.

3. In a smaller bowl, whisk together the whole eggs, egg yolks, vanilla, and the remaining 1/3 cup buttermilk until well blended. Pour one-third of the egg mixture into the cake batter at a time, folding it in completely after each addition. There will be 9 cups of batter; our 3 cups batter into each pan.

4. Bake for 26 to 28 minutes (between 20 and 25 minutes for cupcakes—but start checking at 15 minutes just to be sure!), or until a cake tester or wooden toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.

5. Turn the layers out onto wire racks by placing a rack on top of a pan, inverting it, and lifting off the pan. Peel off backs, let cool, and do what you will with frosting options!

Bittersweet Chocolate Buttercream

7 ounces bittersweet chocolate
1 cup heavy cream
1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1. Melt the chocolate with the cream in a double boiler or metal bowl set
over a pan of simmering water. Whisk to blend well. Remove from heat and let stand, whisking occasionally, until the chocolate mixture thickens to the consistency of mayonnaise (Gross, but true. Be patient, because the thicker this gets, the fluffier your frosting will be).

2. Place the butter in a large mixer bowl and with an electric mixer on medium speed, whip the butter until light and fluffy. Add the chocolate cream and whip until lighter in color and somewhat stiff, about three minutes. Do not whip too long or the frosting may begin to separate.

May 12, 2009

Render-You-Speechless Chocolate Chip Cookies





Oh hai! I am as big as a golf ball!


Oh hi! You were maybe expecting words, but there is only gluttony, excessive drool, glasses of milk, disavowal of all sharing principles, and an absolute replacement of anything nutritious in my diet with cookies served in multiples of six (read: seven). Word. Do not ignore the authority of the recipe when it tells you to refrigerate the dough for 36 hours; I am now a David Leite neophyte. I made a batch of these cookies before and after a 36-hour refrigeration, and they were astoundingly more buttery, crispy on the outsides, flavorful, and soft in the middle after a stint in the fridge. Just like me! Now I am softer in the middle too!

Leite's Chocolate Chip Cookie
David Leite, New York Times

I just used all-purpose flour. The weights are provided for the fastest, easiest measurements, but I'm not fast or easy (snerk), so I measured.

2 cups minus 2 tablespoons (8 1/2 ounces) cake flour
1 2/3 cups (8 1/2 ounces) bread flour
1 1/4 teaspoons baking soda
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 1/2 teaspoons coarse salt
2 1/2 sticks (1 1/4 cups) unsalted butter
1 1/4 cups (10 ounces) light brown sugar
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (8 ounces) granulated sugar
2 large eggs
2 teaspoons natural vanilla extract
1 1/4 pounds bittersweet chocolate disks or fèves, at least 60 percent cacao content (I just used Ghiradelli chips in the brown bag--took a little less than two bags)
Sea salt


1. Sift flours, baking soda, baking powder and salt into a bowl. Set aside.

2. Using a mixer fitted with paddle attachment (or an egg beater!), cream butter and sugars together until very light, about 5 minutes. Add eggs, one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Stir in the vanilla. Reduce speed to low, add dry ingredients and mix until just combined, 5 to 10 seconds. Add your mega amounts of chocolate and mix well. (These latter stages of dough mixage did not work so well for me. My dough was hella thick, and I practically broke a wooden spoon trying to stir all of this up at the end. Just be patient, and use your hands to do the final incorporation, if need be.)

4. Press plastic wrap against dough and refrigerate for 24 to 36 hours. (Dough may be used in batches, and can be refrigerated for up to 72 hours.)

3. When ready to bake, preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a nonstick baking mat.

4. Scoop fat mounds of dough (the size of generous golf balls) onto baking sheet. I used an ice cream scoop that holds nearly three tablespoons for this step, and my cookies worked out just fine. Do not flatten. They are perfectly excellent cooked in all of their golf-ball glory. Sprinkle lightly with sea salt and bake until golden brown but still soft, 15 to 20 minutes (mine took exactly 16 minutes, the original recipe recommends 18). Transfer sheet to a wire rack for 10 minutes, then slip cookies onto another rack to cool a bit more. Repeat with remaining dough, or reserve dough, refrigerated, for baking remaining batches the next day.


May 2, 2009

Cakewalk: Best Chocolate Cake Recipe with Almond Buttercream


This is a weighty claim to make, I know, but this is the best g.d. cake I have ever eaten. It seems like it would be a mocha cake, but it's really just a rad cake that gets all rich and delicious with the addition of coffee, which through some sort of chemistry science I do not understand, makes chocolate taste better. Science=delicious.

According to Corby Kummer, the cupcake pandemic is really only worth cheering on in the hopes that somebody somewhere will finally get the cupcake right. Novelty cupcakes and overkill cuteness be damned, and let’s get rid of dry cakes and grainy or greasy frosting while we’re at it. Excepting the rare encounter with a truly killer cupcake, I always leave bake shops feeling totally suckered by cute decorations and swirly buttercreams, and then immediately disappointed by bland cake and stale frosting. The proceeding recipe is like the panacea for paltry cake.


Besides being sifter-less, I was (and still am) clearly pastry-bag-less.


Best Chocolate Cake

To instantly disenchant yourself with cupcakeries, top this recipe with your favorite frosting. I'd recommend a boiled vanilla-bourbon frosting or chocolate ganache, because really I'm not so into buttercream. Butter=good on bread, freaky on cake. I'm not sure where this recipe is from originally. It's ubiquitous online, though you might see it with different proportions since it was originally made to be a ten-inch layer cake. The following proportions will work for two dozen cupcakes or a double layer caked baked in two nine-inch pans.

2 ounces high-quality semi-sweet chocolate (I used Ghiradelli)
1 cup hot brewed coffee (high-quality coffee is preferable, decaf. is fine; take care to avoid burning the coffee)
2 cups sugar
1 2/3 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup unsweetened cocoa powder (not Dutch process—I used an extra dark powder)
1 1/3 teaspoons baking soda
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 large eggs
1/2 cup vegetable oil
1 cup well-shaken buttermilk (1 cup regular milk plus 1 tablespoon white distilled vinegar, mixed together and left for ten minutes to curdle, will also work)
1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Preheat oven to 300 degrees F and prepare cupcake tins with liners. Lightly grease the pan before inserting the liners for easy removal of cupcakes.


Finely chop chocolate and in a bowl combine with hot coffee. Let mixture stand, stirring occasionally, until chocolate is melted and mixture is smooth.


Into a large bowl sift together sugar, flour, cocoa powder, baking soda, baking powder, and salt. In another large bowl with an electric mixer beat eggs until thickened slightly and lemon colored (about 3 minutes with a standing mixer or 5 minutes with a hand-held mixer). Slowly add oil, buttermilk, vanilla, and melted chocolate mixture to eggs, beating until combined well. Add sugar mixture and beat on medium speed until just combined well.


Divide batter into cupcake tins, filling each one 3/4 full of batter. Bake for 25 to 27 minutes, or until a tester comes out clean. Do not overbake. If your oven bakes unevenly, be sure to rotate the pans halfway through baking. Let cupcakes cool in their pans for about 10 minutes, then gently remove, place on a rack, and let cool until ready to frost. Cupcakes are best eaten within the day, but will keep for three.


Almond Buttercream

1 cup sugar
1/4 cup water
3 egg whites
3 sticks unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 teaspoons almond extract

In a small saucepan on medium heat, bring sugar and water to boil. Stir to dissolve the sugar, and use a rubber spatula to scrape down the sides of the pan and keep the sugar from building up. Boil until the mixture reaches the soft-ball stage, or 238 degrees F. If you don’t have a candy thermometer, test for doneness by dripping the mixture into a glass of cold water; the mixture should adhere in pliable balls when ready.

In a large bowl, beat the egg whites on medium until frothy and pale, and continue to beat while slowly adding the hot syrup. Raise the speed to medium-high after all the syrup has been added, and beat until the mixture has cooled to body temperature.

Reduce speed to medium, and gradually beat in butter, 2 to 3 tablespoons at a time. At the end of adding the butter, the mixture will fall apart, but don’t despair! Keep beating and eventually the frosting will come together in a fluffy whip. Add the extract, and continue beating on medium until buttercream has the consistency of whipped butter. Frost your cakes, leftover cinnamon buns, your ice cream, your baby brother, what/whomever.