June 28, 2012

Jumbleberry Pavlova


One of the greatest families around had an enormous backyard party at our house last week. With the parents celebrating an anniversary, a sister back from the Peace Corps in Panama, and other sisters having graduated various levels of school, the time was nigh for a big ol’ summer party, replete with its own Pinterest planning board (and cute squabbles to the tune of, “Didn’t you consult the Pinterest board?!”). The Doughertys are the first family I met in DC since they’re that of one of my oldest and finest pals around, Bobbie, and we first crossed ways four years ago when the parents lent us their minivan to do yard sale and Craigslist runs to furnish our new and very empty Petworth group house. Many pizza nights, family concerts, dinners, and parties later, and I’m not quite up to the level of being an honorary Dougherty sister, who are the very coolest of them all, but I fancy myself a sort of honorary very distant type of cousin—good enough.

Dessert at the front, veggie kabobs at the back. Reverse food mullet.

So it was over MadLibs and keg beer that all the Doughertys got together last week. The backyard was filled to the brim with beautiful handmade decorations, a giant white and yellow circus tent, and tons of flowers, pitchers of lemonade, puzzles, and of course good pals from all over. Bobbie and Richie manned the DJ booth, Matt made a giant platter of the most delicious homemade Carolina BBQ, family slaw recipes abounded, and we played a totally dizzying and nearly nauseating game of around-the-world micropong on a circular table while someone beat the stuffing out of a pinata. To top it off, Bobbie’s family commandeered Emily and I to bake for the party, and while it wasn’t quite a Tarts by Tarts last hurrah, it was really nice to be in the kitchen together working on recipes again. Emily whipped up a chocolate-peanut butter-pretzel tart (!!!), a bourbon peach pecan pie, lime tarts, and a passion fruit pie with mile-high meringue. I baked some weird but good frozen key lime bars, a five-layer salted caramel pecan cake, and this here jumbleberry pavlova, which was my favorite of the things I made. This time of year, it’s refreshing to have a recipe that doesn’t require baking or freezing the fruit, letting the height of summer berries shine on their own. Plus, all of the elements can be made ahead, which leaves you more time to spend dancing and playing Taboo with some of the best folks around while scheming permanent points of entry into their family.


Jumbleberry Pavlova
Adapted from GourmetLive

Tweaked this to make the curd much tangier, the meringue slightly larger and less sweet, and of course upped the berries. It's summer y'all: get 'em while you can. This is also gluten-free. Yahoo! 

For meringue:
1 cup superfine granulated sugar
1 tablespoon cornstarch
4 large egg whites at room temperature (3 is fine if you don't want to break a fourth egg)
3 tablespoons cold water
1 teaspoon distilled white vinegar

For filling:
½ cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon cornstarch
⅛ teaspoon fine-grain sea salt
⅓ cup fresh lemon juice
½ stick unsalted butter
3 large egg yolks
1 tablespoon grated lemon
¼ cup whipped cream (recipe below)

For assembly:
1 cup heavy cream
5 cups mixed berries (I used blueberries, blackberries, and raspberries)

1.  Make meringue: Preheat oven to 300 degrees F with rack in middle. Trace an eight-inch circle on a sheet of parchment paper (I traced one of my removable tart pan bottoms). Turn parchment over and put on a baking sheet.

2.  Whisk together superfine sugar and cornstarch in a small bowl. Beat whites with a pinch of salt using a stand mixer at medium speed until they hold soft peaks. Add water and beat until whites again hold soft peaks.

3.  Increase speed to medium-high and beat in sugar mixture one tablespoon at a time. After all sugar has been added, beat one minute more. Add vinegar and beat at high speed until meringue is glossy and holds very stiff peaks, about five minutes.

4.  Gently spread meringue inside circle on parchment, making edge of meringue slightly higher so that lower center can hold the curd and fruit. Bake for 45 minutes, or until meringue has developed a light golden crust all around. Turn oven off and prop door open slightly with a wooden spoon. Cool meringue in oven for one hour.

5. Make lemon curd: While meringue bakes, stir together sugar, cornstarch, and salt in a two-quart heavy saucepan, then add lemon juice and butter. Whisking, bring mixture to a simmer over medium-high heat, then continue to simmer, whisking constantly, for one minute. Turn off heat. Lightly beat yolks in a small bowl and whisk a quarter-cup lemon mixture into the small bowl, then whisk yolk mixture back into saucepan. Turn heat to low and cook, whisking constantly, until curd is thickened, about two minutes (do not let boil). Transfer to a bowl, whisk in zest, press a piece of parchment to surface, and allow to chill in fridge while meringue bakes.

6.  Assemble: Using a spatula, gently remove meringue from cookie sheet and place it on your serving plate--a big one works best as this tends to serve up a bit messy. Beat heavy cream  with a pinch of granulated sugar until it just holds medium peaks, then fold one quarter-cup beaten cream into curd to lighten it. Spoon lemon curd into the dent in the meringue meringue and mound berries on top. Serve remaining whipped cream on the side.

Do ahead: Curd can be made several days ahead of serving, and meringue can be made, wrapped in plastic, and frozen, up to two days ahead. To use, just unwrap meringue layer and leave it on counter for an hour or two to bring it back to room temperature.

Me and Emily, keeping it real summery

4 comments:

  1. what a lovely post! you are the best.

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  2. Thanks, honorary not-distant-at-all cousin/niece!!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Anytime! Call me up for the next family reunion and/or backyard BBQ.

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