Tourteau de Chevre with Grapefruit Honey Sorbet

I'm packin' it in, y'all. After nearly four years at my job as the senior editor for an awesome and essential civil rights group, and after being in DC for the same most excellent, challenging, and straight-up real period of time, I'm headed up to Maine to learn how to make goat cheese and acquire some serious business skills. I have two months left at my job -- very advanced notice, I know -- before putting myself out to pasture at a 100-acre goat farm in central Maine, a little bit north of Bangor. I'll be there until the end of the season, milking goats, making cheese, doing untold numbers of farm chores, and helping manage a farmers market or two, all in the name of learning about business and putting my food and field chops to the test.

Maybe I'll come back to DC with a little more forward momentum toward starting a business, or maybe I'll stay up there or go somewhere else to continue learning about farming and the like for a second season. I've had thoughts of making the most of some of my work connections to get into screenwriting and deeper into production, I still think about going to library school, and I also dream about doing public engagement work for a museum or arts organization. I also have no idea whether this stint will lead me back, long sigh, to the predictability of my cubicle -- yes, the path is clear for this one. All the same, I am very pumped!

I guess this is a little contrived, but bear with me and pretend it's sorta cute that I'm sharing this tourteau de chevre in honor of my goat cheesy celebration. Joey nailed it when he called this a cross between a cheese cake and an angel food cake. It's lighter than it looks -- a drier cheese cake with a pretty light goat cheese taste all within a sweetened pastry crust. Lottie + Doof served his with grape sorbet, but after Joey and I had a killer goat cheese panna cotta with grapefruit in North Carolina the other day, we had to try it with this grapefruit honey sorbet. The combination might seem like a mismatch, but it's totally delicious. Even so, Bobbie ate this with caramel, Joey topped it with maple syrup, I had it drizzled with honey, and we all agreed that spicy blackberry syrup would have been a nice topper too.

Besides, if your farmers markets are anything like ours right now -- that is to say, barely open -- then you could consider this a great, nonfussy dessert for the transition to spring. It will pair well with whatever fruit you have available, plus it's equally good with wine, beer, or coffee. Joey had it for breakfast too, but that's more a quality of his than a quality of the cake's. I hope you enjoy!

Tourteau de Chevre

Adapted from Lottie + Doof

I had to make this in a 9-inch pan because I couldn't find my 8-inch, so it's not as tall and glorious as Tim's was. The instructions below are for an 8-inch pan, but if yours is missing too, just roll the crust out to about 1.5 inches larger than called for and start checking to see if it's finished between 25 and 30 minutes into the second round of baking.

Tart Dough (see below)
5 large eggs, separated, at room temperature
Pinch of salt
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
9 ounces soft goat cheese
3 tablespoons cornstarch
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1. Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Generously butter an 8-inch springform pan.  Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough out into a circle that’s about 10 1/2 inches in diameter. Fit the dough into the springform pan, pressing it against the bottom and about halfway up the sides. Don't worry if dough pleats and folds on itself; do your best to smooth it out and don't worry about being perfect. Put the springform in the fridge while you make the filling.

3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment or in a large bowl with a hand mixer, whip the egg whites with the salt until they start to form soft peaks. Still whipping, gradually add 2 tablespoons of the sugar, and beat until the whites hold firm, but still glossy peaks. If the whites are in the bowl of your stand mixer, transfer them gently to another bowl.

4. With the mixer—use the paddle attachment now—beat the egg yolks, goat cheese, the remaining 1/2 cup sugar, the cornstarch, and vanilla until very smooth and creamy, about a minute or two. Switch to a rubber spatula and stir one quarter of the whites into the mixture to lighten it, then gently fold in the rest of the whites. Scrape the batter into the crust and put the springform on the lined baking sheet.

5. Bake for 15 minutes, then turn the oven temperature down to 350 degrees F. Continue to bake for about 30 to 35 minutes more, or until the top, which will have cracked, is dark brown and firm; a thin knife inserted into the center of the cake should come out clean. Transfer the pan to a cooling rack and let the tourteau rest for 10 minutes. Carefully remove the sides of the springform. Cool the cake completely to room temperature before serving. It will deflate as it cools. Cake will keep covered in the fridge for about one week. I actually thought it tasted better the second day after a night in the fridge, but I leave that up to you!

Tart Dough
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
6 tablespoons very cold unsalted butter, cut into bits
1 large egg
1 teaspoon ice water

1. Put the flour, sugar, and salt in the processor and whir a few times to blend. Scatter the butter over the flour and pulse several times to blend. Then pulse until the butter is coarsely mixed into the flour, with texture ranging from small peas to oatmeal flakes. Beat the egg with the ice water and pour it into the bowl in 3 small additions, whirring after each one. The food process will change its sound a little, grumbling at you and getting deeper. The dough should be moist and malleable, and com together when pinched. Turn the it out onto a work surface, gather into a ball, and flatten dough into a disk.

2. Chill the dough for at least three hours.

Grapefruit Honey Sorbet

Makes about three cups

2 cups fresh-pressed grapefruit juice

1 teaspoon grapefruit zest

1/4 cup cup + 2 tablespoons mild honey, or to taste

1. Whir the juice, zest, and honey in a food processor or blender until all evenly mixed and honey is dissolved, about one minute. Taste for balance; sorbet will taste pretty much how it does as juice. Chill for a few hours until mixture is very cold. Process according to ice cream manufacturer's instructions. Sorbet will keep covered for about a week. After that it gets pretty hard and icy, but won't lose flavor!

Roasted Strawberry Sorbet

Two weeks ago, my good friends Bekka and Jon visited Larriland Farm in Woodbine, Maryland to load up on you-pick strawberries. Last year they came home with probably 20 pounds of berries that deliciously overwhelmed the freezer and fridge, so this year I was sure to sign up for a share of their lode. The berries from last summer were enormous, blood red, and exactly what you’d want for an eating berry, but this year’s have been like small ruby jewels that are slightly sour and much more floral—perfect for cooking, in other words. Growing up I mostly ate strawberries in things, or specifically, slathered with whipped cream, drowned in heavy cream, macerated and saturating a shortcake that was also slathered with whipped cream—they’re a blank canvas for dairy products, y’all. But Lipitor is in my future and I’m reining in my wanton use of fat-full dairy, which leads me to this sorbet: it is amazing. 
 
Most of the sorbet recipes that I consulted consisted of just berries, sugar, and lemon juice, which is sort of plain, especially for one who is accustomed to the righteous richness of strawberries in things. So, taking a cue from 101cookbooks, I roasted the bejeezus out of these berries and then churned the results into my honestly new favorite frozen dessert. Roasting the berries seriously transforms their flavor, almost caramelizing them, and the extra "work" (it's so easy!) is totally worth it. Mom is still going to cram me with strawberries and cream when I go home, and I’m sure that I’ll eat a river of strawberries if the next ones that Jon and Bekka bring home are as far out as the ones from last summer, for now and maybe forever, this roasted strawberry sorbet is my jam.

 
Roasted Strawberry Sorbet

Taking a cue from Heidi Swanson's recipe for roasted strawberries

Heidi's original recipe is for just roasted strawberries, and she suggests pairing them with an array of sweet or savory foods (goat cheese and graham crackers!). The recipe below deviates from her original proportions quite a bit and leaves out the port wine she suggested. All this in the name of killer sorbet. If you're interested in her original, and you should be, check out her amazing book or feature over here.

Get Yr Roasted Strawberry Sorbet On

Yields about five cups sorbet

Two pounds (32 ounces) little strawberries, hulled, and halved if they're larger (trimmed, my berry weight came to 1 pound, 14 ounces)

1/4 cup pure maple syrup

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 teaspoon fine-grain sea salt

2 tablespoons natural sugar

1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon balsamic vinegar, to your preference

1.  Preheat your oven to 350 degrees F. Hull your berries, halve if they're large, and toss with maple syrup, olive oil, and salt in a large bowl. Spread out in a single layer across two rimmed baking sheets or in casserole dishes; you want to use a receptacle that will reserve the juices! Rotating the pans halfway through, bake for 30 to 40 minutes, until the berry juices start to thicken; don't let them burn. Heidi counsels us to check the edges of the pan for tell-tale signs of imminent burning. 

2.  Remove berries from the oven. Working in batches, carefully pulverize the hot berries and syrup in a food processor or blender until totally smooth (my mixture did not need to be strained). Stir in the sugar and balsamic vinegar to taste, and chill puree in the fridge for at least three hours and ideally overnight.

3.  Churn the puree in an ice cream maker according to your manufacturer's instructions. This sorbet is the best eaten straight from the mixer or after firming up in the freezer for 20 minutes. If eating after the sorbet has spent a long period in the freezer, allow sorbet to sit out at room temperature for 15 minutes before scooping. Enjoy!

*Update:  If you don't have access to an ice cream maker, check out this post written by David Lebovitz explaining how to churn by hand. 

Spicy Chocolate Sorbet

Sorbet is so much more photogenic if you lick it first.

Joey just handed me a glass of IPA and is now beat-boxing Beethoven and dancing the robot in the center of his bedroom. This is among the many things that I am grateful for this Thanksgiving season, also including knowing some exceptionally talented and fun people in DC who love to eat. Yesterday, my house and I hosted the first of what will hopefully become an annual Thanksgiving for friends, lovingly dubbed Kickasserole, and it was a downright killer if not outrightly hedonistic meal. Our friends and their friends rallied to bring awesome soups, apple pie doughnuts, standout pies, cheesecake, roasted vegetables aplenty, handmade pasta, smoky salads, sopapaillas, and of course, boatloads of macaroni and cheese (vegan and regular; photos to come). I made a few pies and some rigatoni that was fully drowning in gruyere, and with the tightrope walk that is sharing one oven between six housemates and 44 friends, well, I was thankful to have made a few ice creams and sorbets earlier in the week. As you're making preparations for your own feast-y celebrations this week, fear not the convenience and awesomeness of the freezer. In addition to cuties with robot moves and friends with culinary prowess out the wazoo, pie à la mode is another reason to be thankful this (and every) season. 

Spicy Chocolate Sorbet

The basic chocolate sorbet recipe is by David Lebovitz; the addition of spices and booze is my own and inspired by my lovely friend Samantha. Cinnamon is my jam, but next time I might try steeping cardamom pods and adding espresso powder instead of using cinnamon, chili, and brandy. So many good combinations await!

2 1/4 cups water

3/4 cup unsweetened cocoa (use Ghiradelli or better)

1 cup granulated sugar

Salt

1 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon

2 teaspoons chipotle, smoked paprika, or chili powder of your choice

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

6 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped finely (I used Guittard chips)

1 tablespoon brandy, or to taste

1. Make sure that your ice cream bowl is frozen and ready to churn. Okay, check. In a large pot, bring 1 1/2 cups of the water, the cocoa, sugar, salt, cinnamon, and chili to a boil over medium heat; whisk frequently. Let  the mixture boil for 45 seconds, whisking vigorously the whole time.

2. Remove from heat and add chocolate; stir until it's melted. Add the remaining 3/4 cup water, vanilla extract, and brandy. Put the mixture in a blender and blend for 15 seconds to smooth it out. Transfer to a container and chill the mixture thoroughly, preferably overnight. Then, freeze in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer's instructions. I then froze my sorbet in the freezer for an additional two hours to thicken it up some more.