April 5, 2013

Applesauce Carrot Date Bundt Cake with Cream Cheese Glaze


The countdown to baby goats has begun. It seems that farms the world over have long since welcomed their lambs and kids, but my experience is that Maine is generally a month or two behind the times, considering its winter. The snow won’t melt until May, rhubarb and asparagus won’t peek out until June, and our baby goats are holding steady until...well, any second now, really. April finds me back here on the farm to finish what I started, that being helping goats knock hooves back in November in the name of springtime babies. I know things ‘round these parts have been a touch quiet as of late, but I hope to soon enough inundate you with photos of fluffy, tiny, tail-wagging kids. In the meantime, my final days down south(er) were a torrent of buddies, travel, and a rekindling of my lifelong love of Bundt cakes. There are a few more waiting in the wings, but this carrot cake is one of the handful of recipes that I’ve authored, so I’m pretty pumped to share it with you! It’s chock full of carrots and dates, and if nuts are your thing, well go ahead and add a cup of chopped pecans too. It might not be the quintessential seasonal dessert, but it’s perfectly delicious for sitting around waiting for kid goats and springtime to finally rear their heads.




Applesauce Carrot Date Bundt Cake
This makes a really tender cake. I enjoyed it best from the fridge with a mug of coffee, but still warm from the oven was mighty fine too. Serving carrot cake without cream cheese is practically sacrilege to many folks, including my main dude, but I prefer cinnamon and powdered sugar dusted on top. If you’re like that too, just sift a combo of the two with a pinch of salt over the cake; otherwise, get down with your cream cheesy self!


2 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking soda
2 teaspoons baking powder
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
1 teaspoon fine-grain sea salt
3 large eggs
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup light brown sugar
1 cup unsweetened applesauce
2/3 cup safflower or vegetable oil
3 cups grated carrots
10 Medjool dates, pitted and chopped

1.  Grease and flour a 10-cup Bundt pan, and set oven to 350 degrees F. In a medium bowl, sift all the dry ingredients; set aside. In a large bowl, whisk the eggs with the sugars until fluffy and paler in color, about three or four minutes. (In my experience, this step is essential to getting the Bundt to crisp on the the outside, so don’t skimp.) Whisk in the applesauce and oil, followed by the carrots. Stir in the chopped dates, breaking them up with your fingers to spread them through the batter as much as you can.

2.  In two parts, mix the dry ingredients into the wet. Pour the batter into your prepared Bundt pan, and bake for about 45 minutes, or until a cake tester inserted into the middle comes out clean. Let cool in pan for 15 minutes, then turn out onto a cooling rack and allow cake to cool mostly or all the way before glazing. This is a moist cake and will keep for about three days at room temperature, longer in the fridge.

Cream Cheese Glaze
4 ounces cream cheese
1/2 cup powdered sugar, or more to taste, sifted
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
Pinch salt
5 to 6 tablespoons milk

1.  Beat cream cheese in a medium bowl until smooth and fluffy. Beat in sugar, followed by vanilla, and mix until smooth. Add the milk a tablespoon or so at a time until you have a thick but pourable glaze. Taste for flavor. I prefer my glaze on the less sweet side, but you can always add more sugar and thin it with more water as needed. Pour frosting along the top of cake, and use a knife to nudge it over the edge and down the sides. Voila!

March 19, 2013

Hazelnut Molasses Sandwich Cookies with Chocolate Filling


This has been a pretty righteous month y’all. In spite of losing face, wallet, and phone, I’ve been having an absolutely necessary and excellent time freelancing and visiting buddies in DC. The city seems more vibrant than ever, thanks in no small part of course to the many exceptional folks who are organizing events and giving small businesses space to thrive. (Check out this baby recap of Emily Hilliard’s Pi[e] Day festivities for one such example!) And maybe you saw this on Facebook already, but DC’s city council just proposed an allowance that would give bakers and other food creators the ability to sell homemade goods to the public—if it passes, that’d be reason enough to move back.

At the moment, I’m still figuring out what’s next, but with a definite scheduled stop in Maine to help deliver baby goats and to hike that big ol’ mountain. And currently I’m resting my head in Philly, home to a few pretty sweet art exhibits and some of the best beer around (plus PRETZELS). But the wandering and the hubbub demand a return to basics—or well, deliciousness posing as basics—and this cookie recipe is more of a cathartic get-‘er-done thing than a big ol’ kitchen exertion; these felt good to make. Fairly fast and dead simple with a huge flavorful payoff, these cookies offered an eye in the storm of my roving. Slice, bake, fill, stack: a relieving and totally tasty way to chill out.





Hazelnut Molasses Sandwich Cookies
Adapted from Chewy Gooey Crispy Crunchy by Alice Medrich

Medrich says this recipe makes 100 cookies and 50 sandwich cookies, but I preferred the thicker ones and, with that in mind, would say it's more like 75 cookies and 32 sandwich cookies. Depends on how thin you slice your dough!

1/2 cup raw hazelnuts, skins on
1 2/3 all-purpose cups flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
Scant 3/4 cups granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon fine-grain sea salt
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon orange zest
1/4 cup unsulphured molasses
8 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped, for filling

1.  Place the nuts, flour, and baking soda in a food processor and run until the nuts are finely ground. Set aside. In a mixing bowl, combine the butter, sugar, salt, vanilla, and zest, and beat with a handheld or KitchenAid mixer until fluffy. On low speed, beat in half the flour mixture, followed by all of the molasses. Beat in the remaining flour until just blended.

2.  Shape the dough into a cylinder about 14 inches long and 1 3/4 inches in diameter. (I rolled mine along a stainless steel counter, but you can use a longer sheet of wax paper to aid you instead.) Wrap the dough tightly in wax paper or plastic for two to three hours, or until it's firm enough to slice.

3.  Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of oven. Slice dough log into quarter-inch rounds (Medrich recommends eighth-inch, but thicker was better for us), and place 1 1/2 inches apart on lined cookie sheets. Bake for seven to ten minutes (Medrich says ten to 12, but ours were done by eight), rotating pans halfway through. The cookies will puff up then settle down before they are done. Set the liners on a cooling rack, and cool all the way before stacking or storing.

4.  To fill, melt the chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over simmering water. Spoon about one or two teaspoons of chocolate onto the underside of a cookie, then top with a same-sized cookie. Allow chocolate to set for about 15 minutes. Sandwich cookies will keep for one week in an airtight container.

March 15, 2013

Peanut Butter Honeycomb Pie and Pi(e) Day!


The first time I celebrated Pi(e) Day was as a sophomore at Berkeley in a hippie co-op full of math magicians and culinary geniuses—all pie, all day, and for some of the following day too. It was the most supreme and comforting display of nerdery, revived again in my recent life at the hands of DC's resident pie enthusiast. Every year—from her previous homes to here—Emily organizes a Pi(e) Day event, and the one she put together yesterday was a smorgasbord of sweet and savory, all heralding math, pie, and a fantastic local farm and education center that benefited from the cover cost. And boy was it ever delicious.

Spaghetti pie, chocolate hazelnut tarts, salty caramel chocolate pie, hot 'n' spicy chili pie, butterscotch meringue: I arrived totally starving and left completely wired and with a head full of ideas for new recipes and collaborations. The gals from The Runcible Spoon were there sharing a sweet craft and their latest beautiful zine (breakfast themed!), and Emily and Elizabeth's lovely pie book had a li'l cameo too. Most of my conversations with strangers ended up being about people's personal pursuits, and it was so nice to spend one of these last few days in DC hearing about—and eating!—all the creative projects that folks are working on. 


I ended up bringing four offerings to the event, three tried-and-true classics and one new recipe: labneh tart with sesame brittle, Floriole's chocolate ganache meringue tart, super tangy lemon tart, and this big ol' beastly peanut butter honeycomb pie. I only had the chance to run a piece of honeycomb through the smears of filling and crust left on the pie plate, but that was enough to know that I'll definitely be making this again. Creamy and rich, this pie hails from one of my very favorite pastry chefs who has never done me wrong. Kim Boyce knows what's up, and this ode to insanity brings out the very best in sweet, salty, crunchy, and creamy contrasts. Just don't wait until Pi(e) Day next year to make it. And, of course, a big thanks goes out to all the people who worked so hard to make DC's Pi(e) Day such a stellar and inspiring event—y'all keep this city alive!


Peanut Butter Honeycomb Pie
Adapted from Kim Boyce for Bon Appétit

I only made a few tweaks to this: upped the nutmeg, swapped the powdered sugar for cornstarch because I was concerned about it setting, omitted the salted peanuts she calls for in the end. It was a big hit at Pi(e) Day and not nearly as annoying to make as it seems! You need to allot two or three hours to set the custard, but all the individual pieces come together in about a half hour or so.

Crust
9 full-size graham crackers, broken up
1/4 cup light brown sugar, packed
1/4 teaspoon flaky sea salt
1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg (bumped this up to 1/4 teaspoon)
6 tablespoons butter, melted 


Filling
8 large egg yolks
12 tablespoons sugar, divided
1 1/2 cups whole milk
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise (or 1 teaspoon vanilla extract)
12 tablespoons (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
1 cup creamy peanut butter (natural is fine!)
1 teaspoon cornstarch, sifted
1/2 teaspoon flaky sea salt

Honeycomb
1 1/2 cups sugar
3 tablespoons corn syrup
1 tablespoon honey
1 tablespoon baking soda, sifted

 
Chocolate Glaze
2 ounces bittersweet chocolate (do not exceed 61% cacao), chopped
2 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1. Make the crust:  Preheat oven to 325. Finely grind graham crackers, sugar, salt, and nutmeg in a food processor.Transfer crumb mixture to a medium bowl. Add butter and stir to blend. Use bottom and sides of a measuring cup to pack crumbs onto bottom and up sides of 9-inch pie pan. Bake until golden brown, about 15 minutes. Let cool.

2.  Make the filling: Mix yolks and six tablespoons of sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment (or you can use a handheld mixer). Beat at high speed until ribbons form, stopping once to scrape down sides of bowl, about two minutes.

3.  Combine milk and remaining six tablespoons sugar in a large saucepan; scrape in seeds from vanilla bean and add bean to pan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring to dissolve sugar. Remove bean. With mixer running, gradually add hot milk mixture to yolk mixture. Scrape mixture back into pan. Clean bowl. Whisking constantly, bring custard to a boil over medium heat. Remove pan from heat and whisk vigorously for one minute. Return custard to mixing bowl and beat on high speed until cool, about four minutes. Mix in butter, one tablespoon at a time. Add peanut butter, cornstarch, and salt; beat to blend. Scrape filling into cooled crust; smooth top. Chill until set, two to three hours.

4.  Make honeycomb: Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or foil. Combine sugar, corn syrup, honey, and 1/4 cup water in a heavy, deep saucepan. Stir over medium-low heat until sugar dissolves. Increase heat to high and bring to a boil. Once boiling, cook without stirring, occasionally swirling pan and brushing down sides with a wet pastry brush, until sugar turns pale amber, about seven or eight minutes. Working quickly, remove pan from heat and add baking soda (mixture will foam up dramatically), and whisk quickly just to combine. Immediately pour candy over prepared sheet (do not spread out). Let stand undisturbed until cool, about 20 minutes. Hit candy in several places with the handle of a knife to crack into pieces

5.  Make glaze and assemble:  Once pie is set and cool, stir chocolate and butter in a small heat-proof bowl set over a saucepan of simmering water until melted and smooth. Drizzle some of the chocolate glaze over the peanut butter filling, then pile pieces of honeycomb on top, then drizzle remaining chocolate glaze over the honeycomb. This pie is a beast to cut with the honeycomb on top, so if you’re worried about slice presentation, just drizzle the chocolate on the pie, and top each slice with honeycomb and more chocolate. Finally, I only used about half the honeycomb. The rest we are dipping in chocolate and snackin’ on!

March 4, 2013

Lime Bars with Cardamom Shortbread Crust



Are you there, butter? It’s me, Kari. It’s been two days since my last consumption. But fear not, ye fellow unholy butter adherents, these zesty lime bars are just the ticket to redemption, especially if you’re looking for an afterword to last week’s Key lime pie. As with all things bless’ed by the mind of Alice Medrich, these lime bars come together in a snap and taste every skosh as delicious as you’d want them to: zingy and lime-saturated with a cardamom bite to the vanilla shortbread, just for good measure. Fresh grated ginger would also be at home in this recipe, and Apt. 2B Baking Co. whipped up a version last year that does just that. This is the last of the California citrus recipes for sometime, but there’s plenty in the archives to help keep your head above these wintry waters.


Lime Bars with Cardamom Shortbread Crust
Adapted from Alice Medrich, Pure Dessert

I highly recommend using fresh-ground cardamom straight from the pod. It can't be beat!

For the shortbread crust
1 cup all-purpose flour 
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon fine-grain sea salt
1/2 to 1 teaspoon ground cardamom, to taste (depends on how fresh your spice is!)
8 tablespoons (one stick) unsalted butter, melted
3/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

1.  Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line the bottom and sides of an 8" x 8" baking pan with foil. Mix the dry ingredients in a medium bowl. Drizzle the butter and vanilla over the top and whisk it all together until evenly moistened. I was using cardamom straight from the pods, so a half-teaspoon was a goodly amount; taste, and add more if if your cardamom isn't as pronounced as you want it to be. Press the dough evenly across the bottom of the pan, and bake for 25 to 30 minutes until crust is golden brown. Meanwhile make the filling!

For the filling
1 cup granulated sugar (Medrich adds an additional two tablespoons)
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
3 large eggs
1 1/2 teaspoons lime zest
1/2 cup strained, fresh-pressed lime juice

2.  Stir together the sugar and flour in a large bowl. Whisk in the eggs, then the zest and lime juice. When the crust is ready, turn down the oven to 300 degrees F. Pour the filling onto the hot crust and bake for 20 to 25 minutes longer until filling no longer jiggles when tapped.

3.  Set on a rack to cool completely in the pan. Once cool, lift up the foil liner and transfer to a cutting board. Cut into nine, 16, or 25 squares (or whatever!), and top with a little powdered sugar for looks if so inclined. Will keep for three days covered in the fridge; taste is still good for longer, but the shortbread softens.

February 26, 2013

Pepe's Cafe Key Lime Pie


Last week was rife with kitchen mishaps. If you follow this blog on Facebook, you'll know that I baked a pocked and overly eggy shaker lemon tart whose cloying, stringy filling was reminiscent of mop 'n' glo—mop head and all, really. I also had two nasty run-ins with the mandoline slicer and am currently operating at 60% finger capacity on my right hand. My worst kitchen moments occur when I'm rushing or distracted or both. On the ill-fated shaker lemon day, my momma was seeking a lesson on using the scanner and I was trying to wrap up some photos before losing the light, and whether or not the recipe was destined to fail, I did it no favors by rushing through to do three things at once. It's a merit badge reminder that I seem to lose every now and then.

But obviously, since this post features the most delicious Key lime pie in my family's memory bank, I got my groove back later in the week. And what finally slowed me down was Molly O'Neill's fascinating article on the story of Key lime pie. Convinced that sweetened condensed milk is a strange modern additive, O'Neill travels down to Florida to learn about the pie's history and original ingredients. There she meets David L. Sloan, a baker, former cruise ship director, and ghost wrangler, as well as the foremost Key lime pie authority.

Years previous, Sloan had discovered in a ghostly mansion a recipe handwritten by the pie's fabled inventor, "Aunt Sally," and he has continued to research the pie in all its iterations. The story is spliced with the history of sweetened condensed milk, and its inclusion in the pie is indisputable, Sloan asserts. Throughout the article he hints to twists and preferences that make this pie a family's own—cream or meringue topping, cookie or graham cracker crust, bacon or cardamom mixed in—but the invariable main filling ingredients are sweetened condensed milk, Key lime juice, and eggs. What follows is one of Sloan's favorite classic recipes, courtesy of Florida's Pepe's Cafe, and whether you take it in sum or consider it a blank canvas, it's a dang delicious way to treat your Key limes. Just be sure not to rush.


Key Lime Pie
Adapted from Pepe's Cafe, via Bon Appétit

I have access to California Key limes here, which I gather are greener and less complex than Florida Key limes. Mexico Key limes abound as well, and they look more like their Floridian counterparts, but I didn't come across them until after I'd made this. Just getcher hands on whatever Key limes you have, because this pie is outright excellent.

For the crust
1 1/2 cups pulverized graham crackers (from twelve 2 1/4" x 4 3/4" crackers, i.e., full-size grahams)
1/4 cup sugar (this could be reduced by half; do so if you're not that into super sweet)
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Hearty pinch fine-grain sea salt
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

1.  Arrange the rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees F. In a medium bowl, mix the ground crackers, sugar, cinnamon, and salt. Drizzle on the butter, and toss with a fork until evenly moistened. Press crumbly mixture along the bottom and up the sides of a nine-inch pie plate (I had extra; made a good ice cream topping).

2.  Bake until crust set and golden brown, about ten minutes. Set aside to cool while you make the filling.

For the filling
2 large egg whites
4 large egg yolks
1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk
1/2 cup fresh squeezed Key lime juice

To serve
1 cup heavy cream
3 tablespoons powdered sugar

1.  Beat the egg whites in a medium bowl until they've formed stiff peaks, but aren't yet glossy. Set aside. In a large bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and sweetened condensed milk. Add the lime juice and whisk until combined. Fold in one-third of the egg whites to lighten the mixture, then fold in the rest until evenly combined.

2.  Pour the filling into the graham shell, spreading evenly along the top. Bake until just set in the center, about 20 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool completely, then refrigerate for at least two hours before serving. To serve, I found it was easiest to run my very sharp knife under hot water and dry it before each cut. The warm knife sliced well, and the whole thing served up totally intact—much cleaner than I thought it would.

3.  When ready to serve, beat the heavy cream and sugar until soft peaks form. Top each slice with a dollop of whipped cream, or mound it in the center of the whole pie if you're going to eat the entire thing and prefer that presentation. Pie keeps best without the whipped cream atop and will last for about three days covered in the fridge.